By Naomi Duguid, Jeffrey Alford
For this significant other quantity to the award-winning Hot bitter Salty Sweet, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid trip west from Southeast Asia to that massive landmass the colonial British known as the Indian Subcontinent. It contains not only India, yet extends north to Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Nepal and as some distance south as Sri Lanka, the island kingdom so devastated by means of the hot tsunami. for those who love foodstuff and cooking, this tremendous quarter is a resource of limitless kind and eye-opening flavors.
Home chefs realize the Tibetan-influenced foodstuff of Nepal, the Southeast Asian tastes of Sri Lanka, the critical Asian grilled meats and clay-oven breads of the northwest frontier, the vegetarian cooking of the Hindus of southern India and of the Jain humans of Gujarat.
It used to be simply two decades in the past that chefs started to comprehend the relationships among the multifaceted cuisines of the Mediterranean; now we will start to do an analogous with the meals of the Subcontinent.
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Extra resources for Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent
Each mouthful was tart-sweet and savory, flavored with mustard oil and warm spicing, with a medium heat. This is our version of that rainy-day discovery. P H O T O G R A P H S O P P O S I T E L E F T A N D O N PA G E 1 6 1 medium-large or 2 small green or yellow star fruit (1/2 to 3/4 pound) 2 tablespoons mustard oil Using a paring knife, trim the very finest tough edges off the five “wings” of the star fruit and discard. Trim off a narrow slice at each end of the fruit, then slice the fruit crosswise into thinner-than-G-inch-thick slices.
One winter afternoon I spent several hours watching and photographing the cook at Lala restaurant, a little street-side café in the main bazaar in Udaipur. He worked outdoors in the street, deftly and quickly, first shaping and frying kachoris (see page 134), then stirring up a large batch of tamarind sauce in a huge restaurant wok. Though it’s generally called tamarind chutney, this is really a sauce, a thickened liquid that’s a great all-purpose Gujarati-style condiment. It has some chile heat, and a good, blended balance of tart and sweet, so neither predominates.
And there are cobblers, jewelers, potters, pilgrims, and men who spin wool for hire. Kathmandu is a living museum, Hindu and Buddhist, but a museum in desperate decay. The street kids speak well in English, Japanese, German, and French, but there’s little chance they will go to school. To see an Indian movie at the cinema, they split the cost of a ticket, a nickel, and then share a seat. 60 MANGOES & CURRY LEAVES CUCUMBER SALAD WITH HOT SPICED MUSTARD DRESSING .. . ... . . This fresh salad, a cousin of Nepali Green Bean–Sesame Salad (page 76), has a semi-cooked dressing: The cucumber sticks are rubbed with a spice paste of yogurt, sesame, and cumin, then dressed with hot spice-infused mustard oil and fresh lemon juice.