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Extra info for Scientific papers, vol.3
The same 2″ gap is left on the front and back, so the frame is 4″ less than the cabinet depth. The 2″ inset on the back will allow this cabinet to rest tight against a wall if you have baseboards installed in the room. The front space is for toe clearance, and the side inset is a style choice. Attach the frame to the underside of the cabinet, using glue and 1¼″ pocket hole screws. 6 The top H for this cabinet is made with ¾″-thick veneer plywood edged with 1½″-wide oak hardwood J and K. The top will be flush with the back of the cabinet and have a 1″ overhang on the sides and front.
3 Mark the top of each side panel. The top of your jig is always placed at the top edge of the sides. Align the outside edge of the jig to the outside edge of the panel before drilling the column of holes. You'll need two columns on each side panel. Drill through the center of a dowel rod and place it on the bit, butted tight to the drill chuck to expose the length of drill bit needed for the required hole depth. You'll get properly placed holes at the correct depth using this jig method. 4 Apply matching edge tape to the front edges of the two sides A, top B and bottom B.
I. Title. 1 Sq. InchesSq. 45 Sq. CentimetersSq. 16 Sq. FeetSq. 09 Sq. MetersSq. 8 Sq. YardsSq. 8 Sq. MetersSq. 035 about THE author Danny Proulx is the owner of Rideau Cabinets and is a contributing editor for CabinetMaker magazine. He also contributes freelance articles for Canadian Woodworking, Canadian Home Workshop, Popular Woodworking and other magazines. His earlier books include Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets, The Kitchen Cabinetmaker's Building and Business Manual, How to Build Classic Garden Furniture, Smart Shelving & Storage Solutions, Fast & Easy Techniques for Building Modern Cabinetry, Building More Classic Garden Furniture, Building Cabinet Doors & Drawers, Build Your Own Home Office Furniture, Display Cases You Can Build, Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets and Building Wood-shop Workstations.